earlyoungnz
- Jul 31
- 4 min read

# 3: Camino, off I go! Day 1

Updated: Aug 6

Day 1 on the Camino Frances - Saint Jean Pied de Port to Espinal - 32km

I’d gone to bed really early to get a good sleep (apparently too good a sleep as the top bunk was empty when I woke around 3 am damn it) so was just itching to get things underway and get onto the trail finally after the four days of getting to the start.

I walked into the little narrow laneway outside the accommodation at 6 am and had to set up my own self-timer with literally no one around to assist with the “before shot”. Sunrise was 6.30 am so I set off in darkness for what is billed as the hardest day of the trail that takes you from France, up and over the Pyrenees, and back into Spain.

Preventatives had been applied such as the “anti-friction” cream and although my blister that was troubling me in the lead-up felt somewhat healed (excuse the pun), I slapped on a decent silicon patch to ensure the natural repairs might hold. Both never troubled me all day thankfully.

The first section is 8km all uphill to Orrison via a narrow country lane. When I say uphill, it’s somewhere between Baldwin Street in Dunedin and Parnell Rise - it’s seriously steep and unrelenting. I passed Orrison just before 8am having seen only two people however the trail got a little busier from here. A number either stay at Orrison or get a taxi to this point to make it a bit more manageable. No such luxuries for this pilgrim!

I’d envisaged myself drinking beer out on Orrison's terraced bar much as I’d seen in the movies but at 8am and having already had a pilgrims breakfast I simply plodded on and in fact (maybe stupidly) only stopped once for the day.

The gradient didn’t really lessen as we climbed higher into the mountains (or more high country hills). The weather was perfect for hiking though, 19 degrees, high clouds, and occasional sun - very comfortable to walk in.

Spanish border or at least the border of Navarre province. Close to the top and into the clouds.

I remember when I announced I was doing this, one of my friends who had ridden the length of NZ on the Te Araroa, offered the advice of “embracing the difficult moments”. I found myself repeating this phrase often during the day and it kind of helped the mind override the body in a good way - a nice little touchpoint.

Nearing the top we went into some cloud and some memorials to fallen pilgrims (one most recently in 2021) along with block weather shelters, were acute reminders that things could get harsh up here. We reached 1450m so a little like walking over the Tararua’s albeit on a slightly better-formed trail, in fact, I was amazed that they’d sealed these glorified farm tracks so high into the hills.

There were a few interactions with other hikers but not yet to the level I had expected. So little people speaking English or choosing not to speak English so I haven’t quite found my Camino family yet!!

The downhill into Roncesvalles was probably worse than all the uphill. I regretted not having poles a little and felt a slightly inadequate seeing significantly older people seemingly “skiing past me” as I concentrated on trying to preserve the knees and feet!

Most people opt to stop at Roncesvalles which is a huge facility that I think can sleep up to 270 in what was once a monastery. I heard it was extremely well fitted out with massive dorms and in hindsight, I kind of wished I’d stopped here. I’d heard all sorts of chat about the popularity of the trail and with a first in first-in-first-first-served basis, pilgrims missing out on a spot. Bit of scaremongering and certainly not true for just now but I’d already booked a confirmed room 7km down the road.

Amazing architecture Bar next to the church seems pretty standard!

I have to admit, although I was embracing the difficult moments, I was bloody relieved for a few well-earned beers at the bar at Roncesvalles before resuming the walk.

I reached Espinal, a cute small village where shops and houses are built right up to the edge of the road, after 9 hours of walking. 32kms and 55000 steps which set a new bar for me. The biggest muscle in the body was strangely hurting the most and I feel like I may have strained a butt cheek!!

The accommodation is nice and I’m in my own room tonight so the only person I’m waking is me! Only two other people staying here sadly, and all three of us, went for a pilgrim's dinner at a restaurant/alburgue down the road - 14 Euros for three basic courses (although the pasta was nice) and wine. Most of the table didn’t speak English but had some nice chats with two young Germans out on the trail for a week. Still finding “my” way.

We go again tomorrow!

Buen Camino!